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A snowbird

23 March 2011

What’s was the most important construction project in Puerto Vallarta’s history as a resort community?  Perhaps this small bridge…

From “Lovetripper.com“:

Tucked up in the hills lies Casa Kimberly, a hacienda built in 1957 which Richard Burton rented, later buying the massive home as a present for Elizabeth Taylor’s 32nd birthday. Even by Hollywood standards, the home ranks as a giant, spanning 22,900 square feet with three gardens, 10 bedrooms, and a dozen bathrooms.

Now operating as both a bed and breakfast and a museum, with tours available for a small fee, Casa Kimberly may be built to a movie star scale but, surprisingly, it shows a couple that lived laid-back lifestyle. Built without air-conditioning but positioned to take advantage of sea breezes, the house was definitely a home. The room which functions as today’s game room was a school room during Burton and Taylor’s days in the home, which spanned from 1963 to 1974.

Reminders of the famous duo are found throughout the home, which Elizabeth Taylor left fully furnishing, taking only a painting of herself that Diego Rivera had created. The couple’s bedroom is filled with photos of happier days; it’s a room that’s requested by many honeymooners and anniversary couples.

For all the romance-filled photos found in the home, visitors see what might be a clue to the couple’s eventual breakup: literally his and her haciendas. The main house functioned as Liz’s home but across the street stand another hacienda which served as Burton’s hideaway. Connected to the main house by a pink bridge (a replica of Venice’s Rialto Bridge), Burton’s “bachelor” pad had its own kitchen, pool, and even a getaway route. To avoid the ever-present paparazzi, the couple could sneak out a door which connected to the neighboring hacienda, allowing them to take their children off to the beach unobserved.

Dame Elizabeth Taylor, D.E.P (February 27, 1932 – March 23, 2011)

(This is obviously NOT the Rivera portrait, which I have never seen, and can’t find a copy of anywhere on the internet).

Southern under-exposure

22 March 2011
tags:

I just purged about 100 pages I’d bookmarked over the last week or two.  I can’t write about EVERYTHING, but before getting back to the one or two issues that have obsessed me lately, a few worthwhile pieces that cry out for someone — anyone? — to follow up in more detail.

Baja Humbuggery:

Via some website that seems to be more interested in who is hacking who up in the Baja, and I only heard of because a better informed site seemed to think I was in cahoots with the guy (whoever he is) I ran across an article in the on-line Rosarita Noticias about an “investigation” into the “rent-a-moppet” racket.  I think everyone has heard that the kids begging in the streets, or with the woman selling gum or candy, isn’t really her kid, but was rented for the day.  You’d think somewhere, some not-too-enterprising investigative reporter (or even the consumer affairs writer) would have simply followed some beggar home.  Or a “rent-a-kid” racket would have shown up somehow… in the couple of millenia this tale has been floating around wherever there are beggars… in other words, it’s  a story that has probably been around ever since Abraham was tramping around the City of Ur… in other words, an urban myth that goes back to the beginning of urbs… and myths.

Can’t stop the music gunfights

While Rosarita’s great minds worry about rent-a-waifs, in Mazatlán at least there’s something real to worry about … musicians and their patrons getting shot.  What’s the answer… simple:  ban “narco-corrida” music. Probably not what Joe Stalin meant when he said “No man, no problem”.

Another Sinaloa Cartel

The Surfer Cartel.  I need to get out more… about the only surfing I do is surfing the internet… but this is a real problem (and one that the U.S. Consulate has been aware of, but unwilling to do anything about) involving what looks like more than just bullying by foreign-run resort personnel, but an attempt to illegally take possession of what are public beaches by these “camps.”  Sinaloa has seen enough violence lately… I hope we don’t need to call in Leroy’s Mama:

Another drug lord

Well, it was only a matter of time before the gringos muscled in.    Chapo Guzman’s fellow billionaire, Bill Gates, has bought a hefty stake in Latin America’s largest purveyor of addictive, health-destroying and money wasting products — what a Catalan-Jewish Mexican friend of mine used to call “las aguas negras de los imperialista gringas.”

And speaking of colonialism…

Bolivians are again facing malnutrition, thanks to the “discovery” by the rich countries of the healthy properties of one of the few foods they could afford, and — of course — the well fed “west” must be served.

Benito Juarez 1, Obama Administration 0

19 March 2011

Now, this is how Mexicans SHOULD celebrate Benito Juarez’ birthday weekend…
Mica Rosenberg, Reuters:

The U.S. ambassador to Mexico has resigned, the State Department said on Saturday, after a public dispute with Mexican President Felipe Calderon over Mexico’s handling of efforts to combat drug trafficking.

U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton said she and President Barack Obama had accepted Ambassador Carlos Pascual’s resignation after a year and a half in his post

“It is with great reluctance that President Obama and I have acceded to Carlos’s request,” Clinton said in a statement.

The diplomatic spat arose after the website WikiLeaks published State Department documents showing embassy officials criticizing Mexican authorities’ lack of coordination in operations targeting powerful drug cartels.

Calderon lashed out in an unusually critical newspaper interview with the daily El Universal on Feb. 22, saying Pascual had shown “ignorance” about current events and distorted what was happening in the country…

Imagine

19 March 2011

Imagine armed Mexican agents tapping phone lines and flying military planes over Texas and Arizona in search of gun-shop owners and straw-buyers responsible for arming the drug cartels in Mexico. Such actions would not be tolerated by the American people and any suggestion that this were taking place would lead immediately to a high-level congressional inquiry. Although international coordination and support is always helpful, the U.S. legal framework correctly conceives of law enforcement as an eminently domestic affair.

The same is true in Mexico. Mexican law explicitly prohibits foreign agents from carrying weapons or being directly in charge of wiretaps or criminal investigations on Mexican territory. The Mexican constitution also requires the president to gain approval of its senate before allowing foreign military operations in domestic airspace. The general outcry in Mexico against these actions is therefore not a result of backward “nationalistic elements in the political elite,” as one expert has claimed, but a healthy defense of fundamental constitutional principles. This Thursday, Mexico’s foreign secretary, Patricia Espinoza, received a well-deserved shellacking at the hands of leading senators from all of the major political parties, including the sitting government’s Nacional Action party….

John Ackerman, The Daily Beast

It only looks easy

19 March 2011

I kept meaning to post this video, slightly cut down from one that Daniel Hernandez posted on his website (Intersections) 22-January-2011.

Although Daniel ponders the meaning of it all … but it just looks like these kids in Salinas California are just in the tradition of their Mexican ancestors… integrating the outside cultures into the native culture … and had fun doing it.  Though doing this while wearing cowboy boots looks like some real work.

The Mole -men versus everything but Godzilla

19 March 2011

Wow, it’s been a long time since I lived in the northern part of the northern hemisphere, and forgot that among the OTHER hazards faced by los Topos — beyond the usual unstable ground, collapsing buildings, threat of immanent death or dismemberment, etc. and background radiation (not to mention background Scientologists) —  is that it is damn cold and snowy in northern Japan.

These guys, as they’ve done in countless disasters since 1985, just pick up and go where they are needed.  The least you can do, if you are in Mexico, is go to any Banco Santandar and make a deposit into:

Cuenta: 92-00070929-4
Sucursal: 0479 San Fernando
CLABE: 014180920007092942
Referencia: Brigada de Rescate Topos Tlaltelolco, A.C.

Or, if NOT in Mexico, let your fingers do the walking over to Paypal.com and make a donation to

donativos@brigada-rescate-topos.org

Stay!

18 March 2011

Despite the dangers, some refuse to leave the injured behind.

Not quite everyone fled the earthquake and tsunami —  at least one stayed behind to care for the injured with no certainty that assistance would arrive. Which it did, with this Japanese video crew.

 

Sombrero tip: View from the choir

¿WTF?

18 March 2011

Mexicans are not exactly known for mincing their words… swearing, it is said, an average of 20 times a day.  Nor is Mexican media known to deny the fact.  When Emilio Gonzáles Márquez said that those opposing some policy of his to go fuck themselves, and added that his opponents could fuck their mother, his words made headlines in the national papers, and were reported on television.

Of course, the swearing (and the reportage on swearing) was in Spanish.  Apparently, ENGLISH swearwords, however, require a different approach.  An EFE wire story out of Miami in yesterday’s Milenio reports on a U.S. Federal Communications Commission ruling that prevents media broadcast of a recent Enrique Iglesias song in English that perhaps states rather baldly the what is normally expressed through metaphor in popular music… being entitled (and including the lyrics), “I want to fuck you tonight”.  Weird to read in a Mexican newspaper about such an ruling — weirder still to read about it in Spanish, as “una palabra obscena en inglés, la cual empieza con ‘f’” (an obscene word in English, that begins with “f”).

While, of course, Milenio readers wouldn’t necessarily have enough English to figure out what the obscene word beginning with “f” might be, it helpfully posts the video of the song with the English word beginning with “f” in the title… and the lyrics.  I guess it’s educational outreach… or something.

For which, in Spanish, there are a couple of possible responses:

¡Qué putas pasa! ¡or, ¡Qué carajo!  … or “¡Que coño!… or … if one is Peruvian, “¿Qué mierda pasó?

The “mad Irishman”

17 March 2011

We may be celebrating the centennial of the War of Independence now, but the first full-scale drive for American independence (and a radical racial and social equality) did not come in the 18-teens, but in the 1640s, under the leadership of… what else would I write about on Saint Patrick’s Day?… an Irishman:   William Lamport.

Anti-colonialism seems to have been the Lamport family tradition.  William’s grandfather, Patrick, recognizing that the colonial English economic control of Ireland was not at all what one would call “free trade” turned to the era’s most popular form of tax evasion… free-booting.  At the insistence of King James I himself, Patrick was hanged in 1617.    While a student at Grensham College, William would publish a pamphlet attacking James I as a tyrant… making England (and Ireland) no country for at least that young man… who high-tailed it first for France (where he was captured by pirates… then joined them for a time), eventually making his way to Spain.

Lamport as diplomat, unfinished sketch by Anton van Dyck, ca. 1635

In Spain, re-christened Guillén Lombardo, he more or less pursued a more “traditional” career, as a diplomat, which wasn’t such a good career match for the former pirate from a family of pirates.   Spying seems to have been a better job choice.  As SILAS (Society for Irish Latin American Studies) biographer Ryan Dominic Crewe, writes:

Fleeing either a scandalous affair with this noblewoman or an unwanted marriage, William sailed on the Indies fleet bound for Mexico from Cádiz on 21 April 1640.

William travelled to the Viceroyalty of New Spain (present-day Mexico and parts of North and Central America) in privilege, on the same ship as the newly-imported viceroy, the Marqués de Villena. William later claimed that he travelled to Mexico with a special appointment from the Conde Duque de Olivares to spy on his behalf on the social situation in Mexico. There is some reason to lend credibility to this claim: In early 1640, the Conde Duque received a message from the sitting viceroy that the criollos, or Mexican-born descendants of Spanish conquerors and settlers, were on the verge of revolting against Spanish authority. William’s mission, he claimed, was to spy on elite criollos in Mexico City and report all rumours and evidence directly to his patron in Madrid.

Apparently, based on Lombardo’s report, the Conde Duque (the Prime Minister of Spain at the time) authorized a coup-de-etat, putting the Bishop of Puebla (who, although a Spaniard, was acceptable to the criollos) on the Viceregal throne.  Until the Conde Duque could send over another Spanish replacement.

Which wasn’t what the criollos wanted at all.  At which point, Lombardo, perhaps recognizing that he was on the wrong side in a colonial struggle (or, perhaps under the influence of the peyote he shared with indigenous shaman Don Ignacio of Taxco, who Lombardo helped with some lawsuits against mine owners), the Irishman met secretly with groups from across the social spectrum of colonial society, and hatched a plan that sounds much like that  which finally was the key to Mexican independence a century and a half later.  As Crewe tells it:

His tactical plan included the formation of a militia composed of indigenous rebels, enslaved African people, and disgruntled criollo militiamen. After assuming control of the government of New Spain, William would call for general assemblies in all the plazas across New Spain. There, all parts of society – Spanish, indigenous, and African – would proclaim him ‘our liberator, our Emperor and King of New Spain’. There would follow a period of radical social reforms: Freedom would be granted to all those slaves who co-operated with the rebellion, co-operative indigenous towns would be relieved of repartimientos (forced labour drafts) and tributes, and free trade would be established with Europe and China. With Mexican silver now remaining in Mexico, instead of being sent to Spain in the form of taxes and the quinto or ‘royal fifth’ rights to all silver deposits, William believed that this New World sovereign power would rise to prominence among the nations of the world. Finally, William’s regime would not be an absolute monarchy; he proposed a limited monarchy, with himself ‘or whoever the people choose’, as a king who would rule in consultation with an active parliament.

Alas, Lombardo/Lamport was a bit premature… he was betrayed to the Inquisition, on the rather interesting charge of heresy… based on his peyote use (I guess on the assumption that good Catholic Irishmen only get in touch with alcoholic spirits, and not the “pagan” ones of peyote visions).

The Inquisitors originally thought they just had  a nutty heretic on their hands, but soon realized that Lamport was quite serious… and he had better intelligence about the inner workings of the Viceregal government than any peyote vision would have provided and Lombardo/Lamport was a credible threat to more than religious orthodoxy.  It seems that the civil authorities wanted him kept by the Inquisition, in order to discredit him, either as a heretic or a nut, rather than risk what he might expose about the government in a secular trial,  or giving him the chance to appear in public and perhaps spark an uprising.  Perhaps locked up in a dungeon by the Inquisition, he would be safely forgotten.

Monumento de la independencia, D.F.

A nut… but Lamport was a hard nut to crack, resisting “with wit and intelligence” Crewes writes, for the next 17 years.    He also managed to write several treatises, a memoir and 900 psalms during his incarceration, using his bedsheets as paper.

After an attempted jailbreak (dungeon-break) in 1651, he was locked in solitary confinement, and reported to have gone completely mad. Unable to break him (or perhaps he really had gone around the bend), he was sentenced to be burned at the stake in 1659, but — even mad or not, he was not going to give in, nor to give the colonial ruling class the satisfaction of controlling his fate.  He spoiled a perfectly good heretic burning, when he hanged himself from the pyre.

 

¿Le ha escrito a su mamá?/Você já escreveu para sua mãe?

17 March 2011

The United States Postal Service is issuing three new domestic postage stamps… which is also an excuse to put up a few videos.

Two greats that go together… and Carmen Miranda in Portuguese

The missionary’s position — and Mr. Huxley’s… and mine

16 March 2011

I recently added (along with a lot of other sites) a listing for A Franciscan Abroad, which features observations on Andean (Peru and Bolivia) and U.S. current affairs, written by a Brother Stephen Dewitt, OFM.  As with any of us writing from and about Latin America, our experiences in one nation are sometimes all clear an admonition to another.

Apparently some U.S. officials are encouraging Mexico to look to Columbia, or more specifically the U.S. sponsored “Plan Columbia,” as a model in the drug war. The problem with this, as the Institute for Policy Studies’ Sanho Tree points out, is that Plan Columbia* has been a failure. Plan Columbia revolves around a strategy of “fracturing” – the breaking up of larger cartels and disrupting their operations. The problem with this strategy is that destroying larger cartels creates a void that is immediately filled by smaller groups that are harder to track, monitor, and infiltrate. This is exactly what happened in Columbia [sic], which after ten years of Plan Colombia, still supplies roughly 90% of the U.S.’s cocaine, roughly the same amount it did before.

Tree’s analysis fits my experience in Bolivia. During my time there a groups from my language school visited one of Bolivia’s big coca growing regions and talked to the anti-drug police there. They told us that the majority of drug operations in the area are family affairs. These are small family groups that process small amounts of raw coca for export to Columbia and other places to be further refined into cocaine. These groups use relatively cheap, portable equipment that can be moved or abandoned if discovered. It is nearly impossible to reduce these groups; when you arrest or shut down one, there are ten more ready to pick up the slack. Something similar seems to have happened in Columbia.

There is no reason to believe that the result will be any different in Mexico. Moreover, considering the extreme levels of violence plaguing the county, efforts to institute a “Plan Mexico” could extend the violence even more by preventing any kind of settling of drug operations there. The Mexican governments violent war on drugs has cost over 35,000 lives and has completely failed to have any effect on the drug trade in Mexico (in fact, drug seizures have dropped since the government there began its current campaign). In Mexico, the attempted cure seems worse than the disease.

* Spelled thus in the original, although Bro. Steve is referring to the country of Colombia.

Bro. Steve recommends the usual — decriminalizing possession in the UNITED STATES (and putting more resources into rehabilitation and abuse prevention) — which is certainly the best interest of the United States, and might end some violence here, but it seems that seems to overlook that the United States has always  has always turned a blind eye to the abuses and unfair trade practices associated with exploiting both agricultural and mineral resources from this part of the world.

As I noted once before, even “progressive” writers make the assumption that the United States has the right to control whatever resource it is that it craves… in this case,  lithium, specifically lithium deposits in Bolivia.   Whether the United States “needs” lithium, any more than Spain or Portugal “needed” gold and silver in the 17th century is beside the point.  They WANTED it, and that desire overrode all other concerns, moral, ethical, and even survival:  Spain and Portugal ended up broke — “failed states” in modern parlance — as a result of their addiction to “easy money.”  That in the process of obtaining their fix, they unleashed a genocide in the Americas is beside the point for an addicted country… they HAD to have what they needed, and all else was irrelevant.

Sugar, tobacco, coffee, oil… the story is the same in the Americas, and in other parts of the world.  Those that become dependent on it have no concern, nor interest, in the effects their addiction has on the supplier, only interested in maintaining their supply.

Aldous Huxley, in his 1934 Beyond the Mexique Bay wrote:

If coffee and tea grew in Western Europe and had to be picked by people drawing European wages, the cost to the consumer of these commodities would be,  I suppose, about eight or ten times what it is at present.  Which means that the consumer simply would not consume.  ‘The cups that cheer but not inebriate’ will continue to cheer only so long as tropical countries continue to be backward in relation to temperate countries.  Our afternoon tea and our after-dinner coffee depend on the existence of a huge reserve of sweatable coloured labour.  An unpleasant thought.  And if the labour is no longer sweated, then tea and coffee at once become luxuries beyond the reach of all but millionaires.  In an economically equitable world we shall have to depend for our stimulants on the chemist rather than the farmer.

Huxley — far-sighted enough to envision chemical stimulants — might be forgiven for not recognizing that the “sweatable coloured labour” of his time would continue sweating,  not so much to provide stimulants (although two of Mexico’s illegal exports, methampetamines and heroin, do depend on chemists in some sense), but to guarantee that all manner of basic products would continue to be available to other than millionaires. Although manufacturing pays better than work in the fields, or in the mines, the situation is still one where the profits are exported, along with most of the product.  Even though we are no longer “backwards”… in that we are industrial countries and have access to the same goods and services and “cups that cheer” that one can find in the “temperate countries”, our labor is what creates these products, and is considered more “sweatable” than it is properly compensated.  The profits go north, the overhead stays here.

EXCEPT, perhaps, in the narcotics industry.  While I’m hardly convinced that the “real” wealth of any of our narco-lords is anywhere near that claimed by Forbes,  narcotics are bringing wealth into otherwise under-developed areas in Mexico.  Secondly, the anti-narcotics efforts that are implemented do nothing to limit the product, seeking instead to prevent it from becoming a rival to outside interests that could profit from the “sweatable coloured labour” of the producers, for the benefit of “coloured capitalists.”

As Bro. Steven noticed in Bolivia, growers here are small time operators, looking for a return on a investment in an exportable crop.  In that, they are no different than other farmers throughout the world.  The energies (and lives) spent on controlling the exporters, however, seems to be designed to keep the farmers from using local exporters.  Given the on-again, off-again attitude towards legal narcotics in the largest consumer nation, one questions whether the issue isn’t that the “wrong sort of people” are the ones in control.  Were marijuana farmers answerable to Montsanto or Archer-Daniels-Midland,  I imagine the U.S. government would be following a very different course.

We probably would still expect to have an appalling industrial accident and death rate, but perhaps not so noticeable.  One theory floated throughout Mexico is that the militarization of the “anti-narcotics ‘war'” — as in Colombia — has as much to do with preventing social movements from countering foreign industrial intervention or even abetting the foreign companies.  Funny that the Colombian Army found narcotics just where it so happened mining and biofuels companies wanted to acquire property… and that the Texas borderlands are being cleared of rural residents, just as U.S. corporate agriculture is looking to acquire farm land in that area).

I honestly don’t find narcotics all that interesting (and somewhat resent even having to write so much about the fall-out from the proxy war on narcotics exporters) except as another commodity.  The only interesting thing about the business is that, like Bolivian lithium, there is a consternation that “we” in the south challenge the northerner’s assumed rights to control the  production and distribution.  The north, it seems, resents not the narcotics, but that we don’t all go along with their attempts to make us absorb the overhead and would like to see our fair share of the benefits.

Family business, part II

14 March 2011

After Saturday’s post on the (ill-mannered, to put it mildly) sons of recently retired police commander José Manuel Ortega Saavedra, I had to post this other small item about another police commander with  family connection to those on the other side of the law (well… sometimes).

The Governor-elect of Quintana Roo is getting praised by the state’s powerful tourism lobby, and the business sector for his offer to a retired general to take up the post of the state’s Secretary of Public Security (basically, super-chief of police for the entire state).  The general has earned plaudits for his post-military career in law enforcement in northern Mexico and — while his “shoot to kill” attitude towards even “alleged” criminals is extremely troubling —  I expect career military officers going into police work is likely to be more and more the norm in coming years.  I wouldn’t have thought much of it, except for his family connections.

The former Parral and Torreón Police Chief’s family history with crime is rather… uh… checkered.  Grand-dad, Jesús Arango had more than a few brushes with the law, as did great-uncle Doreteo… who later got right with the law, or rather, the law got right with him, after he changed his name to Pancho Villa — maybe the “shoot first and ask questions later” attitude is genetic.